Wednesday, April 30, 2008

The never-ending stories of injustice

A couple days ago, someone came looking for me at Gulu NGO Forum. She walked into the office and I recognized her immediately: Grace, one of the most famous of the Aboke girls, a group of 30 girls who were abducted by the LRA from their school (in Aboke, south-east of Gulu) in 1996. (The Aboke story is quite famous – if you want to find out more about it, I highly recommend the book “Stolen Angels” by Kathy Cook, who is a Canadian journalist.) For those of you who came to the Peace Girl event at the Liu in April, you may remember Grace from the video interviews we featured on the laptops – the interview she gave within days of escaping from the bush during a firefight (she is also featured in the Peace Girl book Erin and I made).

Grace is one of thousands of girls who have been kidnapped in northern Uganda over the last 20 years, given as ‘wives’ to rebel commanders in the bush (usually because either the ‘Holy Spirit’ dictated that they should be given, or as a reward to brave commanders who have risen the ranks by virtue of their ruthlessness). Lots of these young women have escaped and returned to their communities with their children (born of rape), only to face the harsh realities of abject poverty and stigma. Still, many, many others are still held captive with the LRA, and now there is even an entire generation of children who have grown up in the bush, knowing nothing but a completely militarized society.

We stared at each other nervously for a few minutes (oh, what to say?), but very soon we were talking and getting to know each other. She told me about a group she and a few fellow former-abductees have formed; a group designed to advocate on behalf of and address the problems that formerly-abducted young mothers face in particular: poverty, stigma, lack of access to basic medical care or shelter, inability to pay school fees for themselves or their children, and the psychological and spiritual trauma caused by their horrendous experiences.

I am consistently amazed by the courage and resiliency that Grace and her peers are showing (I was also introduced to Janet and Victoria, also Aboke girls). They each have at least one child to take care of, but are trying desperately to finish their high school educations. All dream of going to university. Yet they have spent their spring holiday visiting local IDP camps to collect the names of young mothers, recording their dates of abduction and return, the names of their commander ‘husbands,’ and the names of their children.

It’s groups like this that Peace Girl aims to help, providing financial and moral support and connecting them to others with experience and skills to share. So, I promised them some money and we are getting a bank account set up for them so that they can at least start with some basic income-generation, school fees, etc. We also agreed to meet the next day so that I could meet some of the young mothers she had met at Laroo Forest, one of the camps near Gulu.

So today I waited in the office for these mummas to show up, not knowing what I was really getting myself into and not knowing how many were coming. Around 10:30 I started to see lots and lots of young women and some babies gathering under the big fig tree in front of NGO Forum. There were so many of them that I thought “that can’t possibly be them,” but sure enough, they were all waiting for me. Evelyn, a student translator who works at NGO Forum, came out with me and I introduced myself to the about-20 girls under the tree. We all shook hands and many girls curtsied low. We decided to walk to the Acholi Inn (local hotel) and find a big mango tree to meet under.

We talked for about an hour and a half, and I asked them to tell me about their problems. I was so terribly nervous, not wanting to say the wrong thing or make promises I can’t keep, so I kept it simple. I’ve been trying to remember that just simple kindness can go a long way in these situations, especially for people like these girls who are so beaten down and rejected by society. So the first thing I said to them was that I had heard many of their stories and that I felt very bad for them, and I said that people in Canada want to help them; that people care about them. Then I told them about Peace Girl and congratulated them on all coming together to find strength in one another. They said apfoyo (thank you) and even clapped!

Someone said that they are tired of white people coming and writing down their names and details and they don't get any benefit from it, and that lots of people come and are interested, but they go home and the girls have no one to get help from. I said that I hoped that Peace Girl wouldn't be like that, that we could try to hopefully always have someone, an Acholi, to be there when the whiteys are at home. We really need to hire someone like Grace! I told them that we didn't want them to feel abandoned. I really hope I can live up to that. I worry about this a lot – how do we keep this project sustainable? It’s not acceptable to come over for a summer and then go back to my life in Canada and never think of them again. If I do that, I might as well have never come at all. So I really hope that we can secure enough funding to ensure that this stays as grassroots as possible, and by that I mean run by the girls who know - better than any Canadian university graduate ever could - what they need to improve their lives and those of their children.

After that, they all took turns telling about stigma, lack of funds for education for them and their kids, trouble finding shelter, paying for medical bills, and the struggle of caring for their kids while being themselves orphans and often having brothers and sisters to take care of. One girl also talked about the problem of land access - how most of their husbands in the bush are dead, and when they take up with a new man it usually turns sour and they are forced to move around a lot - but they have no land rights of their own. In Acholi, land passes only through the male line, and children are considered to belong to their fathers’ clans. So these children are mostly rejected by their mothers’ families and communities, called ‘rebels,’ ‘killers,’ ‘bush children,’ etc. People are afraid to have their children associate with these ‘rebels’ because they are also thought to suffer from highly-contagious cen (spiritual haunting), a result of experiences in captivity. Cen is known to cause madness, misfortune, and even death.

One young woman named Mary told us that she was wary of telling anyone about herself, because some people have big mouths - it backfired on her when she confided in a neighbour. She and her mother were kidnapped by the LRA when she was 2 years old, and they killed her mother. The UPDF found her and managed to trace her uncle, and she stayed with him until she was 8 and was abducted again. This time she told us that a young boy tried to escape but was caught, and he was pierced repeatedly with a spear and decapitated. All the new abductees, herself included, were made to line up in a row and pass his head from one to another, saying "if I ever try to escape this is what will happen to me." That story has branded her as a rebel killer in the community.

Mary’s is frighteningly typical. It’s hard to keep my head straight on in the face of such intense and unrelenting suffering. There was no joyous homecoming for these women, no parties or parades. Just fingers pointed and insults hurled. Most have returned to find their parents dead and their homes destroyed. It’s a grave injustice when many rebel commanders, the brains of the operations, have received amnesty and are living off the fatted calf in relatively luxurious surroundings in Gulu Town. But the difficult question here has always been how to convince people to come out of the bush without these concessions. After all, as many elders have argued, it is the lives of thousands of abductees that hang in the balance.

Erin and I have been joking for months that the song ‘Apologize’ by Timbaland/OneRepublic should be the theme for the Accountability and Reconciliation agenda of the Juba Peace Talks. Guess what song started playing on a nearby radio when we were wrapping up? It was the funniest part of the whole afternoon.

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Celine Dion moves from Vegas to Gulu

I complained to Erin about the constant noise in Gulu at all hours – she said that there is no social contract when it comes to noise [apparently this is affecting my brain as well – in my journal I have written “noize” several times]. There is a lot of reggae and (in my humble opinion) bad R&B, rap, and (ironically) God-forsaken Christian rock which is just DEATH – all of this is blasted at anytime, night or day. My neighbour (who hangs out just outside of my bedroom) plays the same song over and over and over for hours, and sometimes in the middle of the night. I haven’t yet been able to identify who the singer is, but the song is a sappy, Celine Dion-esque ballad that has something to do with catching falling stars. I hope a meteor does land on the record company that brought this song to the world.

However, the radio in Gulu does make me laugh. It’s a mix between English and Luo (the local language), and often switches between the two mid-sentence. Some of the announcers also use hilarious gangsta slang in their heavy accents, so I have heard the term “bling bling” repeatedly. I also heard, “I’d like to dedicate this song to all my homies in Gulu.”

The ads are also funny (and sometimes abrasive – think high-pitched shouting about cell phone plans) – one will be for the local clothing store, then the next ad will have the radio announcer say, “May 11th, come and repent! Enjoy turning from your wicked ways at the all-day Gulu prayer festival. Hooray!” Hmm…praise Jesus.

Sunday, April 27, 2008

The Itchy & Scratchy Show: now in Uganda

Dear Bloggees,

Welcome to Edible Rat, home of Letha's random, irreverent, and hopefully inoffensive blog page.

If you are reading this, you are either stalking me on the internet (I love you, too) or I finally made contact with you to let you know that I have decided to start communicating with my friends and loved ones while I am away from your loveliness. I will first answer a few questions:

Letha, where are you? I'm glad you asked. Since April 25 and until August, I am based in Gulu, Uganda. Check out the map.

Gulu is the main town in Acholi-land (composed of Gulu, Kitgum, Pader, and Amuru districts), part of northern Uganda and close to South Sudan. While I'm here I will spend a lot of time outside of the town, in various IDP (internally displaced persons) camps and smaller towns in Acholi.

Ginger, what are you doing? Angelina Jolie is my mentor, and I thought I would be like her and try to adopt abroad. You know, for shits and giggles.

Actually, I am working as an intern for the Justice and Reconciliation Project, for which I have been a researcher for the last year (but from the Vancouver office at the Liu Institute, UBC). I am also launching the research on a new project called Peace Girl.

Northern Uganda, and primarily Acholi-land, has been in a war for the last 22 years. Over 60,000 kids have been abducted and forced into service in the Lord's Resistance Army, while over 90% of the population have been forced to live in IDP camps. JRP (which is all staffed by locals) conducts research in these camps, meeting with war-affected people and finding out how justice and reconciliation can be realised for them. I'm here to help with that research and with the writing of reports.

Lots and lots of girls have been kidnapped as well, and forced to become the 'wives' of rebel commanders. Some have escaped or been rescued, but they come back to lives of stigma, poverty, and despair. They come back with children in tow and have no way of taking care of themselves, let alone their kids. Peace Girl is trying to help them help themselves and each other.

I am perfectly safe and have nothing to fear security-wise (except for maybe from the R.O.U.S.s: see below). The area is the safest it's been in years and the final peace agreement is just waiting to be signed. People are starting to gain confidence that they might be able to go home soon.

Weirdo, why is your blog called 'Edible Rat'? First of all, why not 'Edible Rat'? Secondly, I decided to give it this title because in northern Uganda, people eat edible rat, and as a munu (foreigner/whitey) I find this delicious, from a cultural (not a culinary) perspective. Edible rats are different from household rats (although some people do eat household rats too; poor Rizzo) in that they are large (think corgi-sized) and generally inhabit the forest. Although to date I haven't tried edible rat, I've heard that it does not taste like chicken: it tastes like rat. Yummy!

Munu, why are you so slow to write? It turns out that culture shock is shocking, and it has knocked me flat on my intellectual butt for the last two weeks. I also have a very sporadic internet connection, and my laptop only works when it's plugged in (and I often have no power at home). These are my excuses.

I have been writing everything down, though, but haven't really wanted to share anything up until this point. So from now on I will be blogging and picking out the juicy bits from my journal (so, there will be a bit of a back-blog for a little bit as I get you caught up on my adventures).

So sit back, relax, and enjoy my heavily censored blog entries. I hope you still respect me in the morning.

P.S. This post is called the Itchy and Scratchy Show because my feet and ankles are really itchy from a lot of mosquito bites. That is all.